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Monday, January 23, 2012

From here to Timbuktu

Why does 'Timbuktu' conjure up images of a faraway fictitious place? How many of us really know where Timbuktu is actually located? What about its past and present?
I didn't know anything about this place either so did a little research on Timbuktu (now known as Tomboctou) and found pages and pages filled with information about this place. Never imagined there could be so much history or civilization associated with this place!
So out here, I have tried to give you a glimpse of this place and tried to unravel the mystery of how “Timbuktu” became a metaphor for distant unknown or non-existent places.

                                                                    Timbuktu's Walls                                 Source: Wikitravel.org
 Where is this place actually???

Timbuktu is located in the West African nation of Mali and it is situated 15 km north of the Niger River on the southern edge of Sahara desert.

Source: Lonely Planets
 What does 'Timbuktu' mean?
Timbuktu is believed to have been founded in the 5th century by a nomadic group called “Tuareg Imashagan” who used to wander the Sahara desert in search of grazing lands for their animals. During the dry seasons they would camp by a place a few miles away from the Niger river, where they dug a well. Whenever it started raining in the desert they would leave their heavy goods with an old Tuareg women called Tin Abutut who stayed at the well. In the Tuareg language, Tin Abutut means "the lady with the big naval". With the passage time, the name Tin Abutut became Timbuktu. 


Source: Wikipedia

In addition to this, there are three more possible origins to the name of Timbuktu that have been discovered. You can check them out here.

And then what???

 As you can see in the following map, Timbuktu happened to be located on the cross roads of several trade routes. It linked black Africa below the Sahara Desert with Berber and Islamic traders throughout North Africa, and thereby indirectly with traders from Europe.

Map showing the main trans-Saharan caravan routes in around 1400. Also shown are the Ghana Empire (until the 13th century) and 13th – 15th century Mali Empire. Note the western route running from Djenné via Timbuktu to Sijilmassa. Present day Niger in yellow. Source: Wikipedia
Timbuktu was quickly converted to Islam and became an important centre of Koranic culture with some 25,000 students attending the University of Sankore and numerous other schools present then. Scholars, engineers and architects from various regions in Africa rubbed shoulders with wise men and marabouts (Muslim religious leader and teacher) in this intellectual and religious centre and it attracted travelers from far-away countries.

Meanwhile some famous authors like Leo Africanus and Shabeni wrote some tall tales about Timbuktu’s fabulous wealth which prompted several European explorations to that West Africa. As quoted below:


Thus its relative inaccessibility combined with folklores of its immense wealth and knowledge gave it a fabled status and it began to be used as a metaphor for exotic, distant lands.

Several empires ruled and lost Timbuktu, starting with the Mali Empire followed by the Tuaregs, the Songhay empire, the kingdom of Morocco, Arma Pashalik , Maccina empire and so on.
The rise..
The Askia dynasty of the Songhay empire led Timbuktu to its Golden age through their efficient administration and flourishing commercial centres.
The decline..
Several rulers ruled this city over the next hundred years and their follies along with increasing desertification of the city led to marginalization of Timbuktu in the several trade routes which gradually lost its strength.
Source: Brent Stirton
What about Timbuktu now???

Now Timbuktu is an impoverished town and rapidly undergoing desertification which has made UNESCO to add it to the list of world heritage site in danger.

Some gyaan about Timbuktu as it is now..


So why should you go to Timbuktu now???

Timbuktu is not for everyone. You will either love it or hate it!!

Some go because of its intriguing and glorious past and the thrill of visiting a famous ‘ancient’ destination. Some visit to see the old sand structures and the endangered Timbuktu manuscripts which are still preserved.

Some of the main attractions are:

The three main mosques, mainly the Djingareiber Mosque (built in 1327) which is the oldest, largest and the most impressive of all. The Sankore Mosque (built in 15th century) and the Sidi Yehia Mosque (built in 1441) are at walking distance to it. (However they are closed to non Muslim visitors since 2007.)

Heinrich Barth house: Museum with a few old photos and artefacts

Grande Marche: 2 storey structure with a great view of Timbuktu, selling souveniers.

Timbuktu Museum which is also close to the original Buktu well from where the place derives its name!

Flame of Peace: A monument commemorating the end of the Tuareg uprising in the mid 1990s.

You can explore the distinct architecture of the place with its narrow streets and alleys with mud brick houses and also the communal bread ovens. You can also go on Sunset tours on camel back in the desert surrounding Timbuktu. Or do desert camping in the Sahara and experience a nomad’s life. Sounds awesome to me!!


Al Qaeda is a serious threat in Timbuktu so visitors need to be careful around this place. But I do not feel that that is any reason to not visit a place!

How to get there?

Timbuktu is difficult to get to and lives up to its fabled reputation of being far and difficult to access..
Best time to go is during the Festival in the Desert in Essakane, traditionally held in January or you can also try and catch the festival, Curee Salee in Ingall, Niger across the border(usually in the last 2 weeks of September).
There are several international carriers (Kenya airways, AirFrance, Lufthansa, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Jet Airways, British Airways, Royal Air Maroc) which fly to Mali’s capital Bamako which is a whopping 438 Miles away from Timbuktu.


The cheapest return ticket that I got for Mumbai - Bamako - Mumbai is 49001 INR which is quite reasonable :)
Ironically for a desert town, the most common way to get to Timbuktu is by boat down the Niger river. If you are going in the dry season and there is no boat service available, then you will have to take an uncomfortable but exciting 3 day bus journey to Timbuktu. You also have the option of old Russian planes that fly to and fro to Timbuktu from Bamako.
You can get more information on the travel options here and here.

A boat navigates the Niger river at sunset near Timbuktu, Mali.
After reading this post, I think you have learnt enough about Timbuktu to make a decision if you want to see it or not. I sure would love to someday..:-)
References:

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